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Finally arrived

1. Has fake oki (has the pin cut)
2. AMB 2300 looks original to me with resistors at the back
3. Has V type memory with 10 timing which means 3.3V (not sure if I can put a heatsink, space limitations??, to make them more stable).
4. Has 3 resistors missing see red selection
5. Has QC mark also externally written.

You are not missing 3 resistors. You are missing just 2 0603ESDA2-TR2, which are Electrostatic Discharge suppressors. These are basically there to protect the circuits in case of voltage spike damage.
Any other similar ESD suppressors would work with these specifications

0603ESDA2-TR2 .txt
File Type:
Downloaded:	44 times
Size:	134 bytes

The rest, I would have the ram replaced instead of a fix that isn't proven to fix anything, and worry about OKI much much less, unless you have a Sharan or something.



You will likely find a few more errors inside the 2 electronic boards, namely the A5780A (AU5780A) which is for J1850 VPW protocol, mostly for General Motors products. It could be missing, or installed in wrong position.
(Remember that the VAS5054a is actually a specialized EDIC Blue interface, which was built to be a passthrough interface for all automobiles)

I take it you have seen Fantomel's excellent pics of his genuine VAS5054a, with directions on what to change on the boards to improve it.


Your AMB2300 looks genuine from the outside, but I have seen pics of the HC-05 (also known as BC417) Bluetooth stuffed under the AMB2300 cover, and made to look like an AMB2300. The HC-05 Bluetooth is what the cheap VAS5054a use for Bluetooth module. It's not a bad Bluetooth module; it's good for Arduino and other small electronics, but not for VAS.
The HC-05 Bluetooth under an AMB2300 cover trick module is the one with missing components on the back of the board, because they were not needed for HC-05.

   

A picture I found on the internet. Here is the HC-05 Bluetooth module completely reorganized to look like AMB3200, all under the shiny metal cover. These are the ones missing the small resistors/capacitors (whatever they are) on the back of the Bluetooth board.