[Bad Guy]

Hi All!
The car was not used for a long time, the battery was discharged, now the engine does not want to start, and even the starter is not controlled, despite the serviceability of the starter.

I removed ECU and read the data from the EEPROM M95160 of the engine control unit, I need help to uproot the immobilizer forever. I can virgins the computer using Renolink, and then reinstall ECU, but I want to exclude such problems in the future.
Help me, please!

Modus_ECU_S3000_Sagem_21584913-3A_8200376474.zip
File Type:
Downloaded:	9 times
Size:	736 bytes

[florinelxxl]

I wrote that it is good to use an emulator, it is not written as a dump, it does not write something like that in the eeprom

[Bad Guy]

I have a Julia v2 (Pro), but is this an inevitable solution to the problem?

[scoc]

try this file i make virgin

[Bad Guy]

Thank you, but I have already a virgin ECU with a Renolink, now I'm interested in the ability to remove the immo forever, immo off dump is the task that I want to achieve.

[loki954]

I have a Julia v2 (Pro), but is this an inevitable solution to the problem?

julie work perfect on this ecu

[Bad Guy]

Okay, I'm giving up.
I thank all my teachers who instructed me on the Path of Truth.

[Bad Guy]

julie work perfect on this ecu

I want to make an immo-off using the SQU OF96 emulator, (this is a Chinese version of the genuine Julie Car Emulator, but colleagues say that it works normally on these modules. But all the instructions are not prescribed to the end even on the original website, and here I have just a problem. I do everything strictly according to the instructions, but at the stage when the emulator is configured/connected to the module PCB, the instruction breaks off. It has just been written that the emulator LED should be blinking with a frequency of 0.1 seconds, and after it makes "friends" with the module, it should flash once every two seconds. So the question actually: this ECU must be supplied +12v and ground to the module on the table or ground and constant +12v and the ignition +12v, or simply connect to the car immediately. And is it necessary to cut the CAN or K-line wires in the car?

Because if I connect BAT+12v and ground to the ECU, then the blue LED flashes for an infinitely long time with a frequency of 0.1 seconds and that’s all. The wires soldered from the emulator on the CAN contacts on the PCB are "called" normally, and connected according to the instructions of the manufacturer of the original emulators. I do not want to put bad experiments on a living patient.
I ask for help, colleagues.

[Bad Guy]

I did everything independently, everything works, and the topic can be removed.
Thank all!