[Probleemkind]

Hello everyone, 

I will very soon be buying my first E93 335i with the N55 motor. Original M pack, and very nice interior as exterior. It does come with a blown motor, but the deal includes a complete donor motor, which is at the moment disassembled, i will be rebuilding this engine and swapping it for the old one.

I will be posting either links, pictures or videos of the rebuild/swap here in this thread, for any of you who wants, to follow.

Kind regards.

[Probleemkind]

Sorry for not keeping you updated for a while. I started on pulling the motor, everything is disconnected and the motor is ready to be pulled out and be replaced.

[Probleemkind]

Quick little update:

I've taken the motor aрдят and had issues with the crank, the crank is checked for impuritities and now ready to be installed.
I will start assembling the motor soon. The next update i'll make sure to add pictures for the experience!

[Probleemkind]

At last an update on the build including some pictures. The pictures include damage of the old motor and progress on the one i'm rebuilding.

As seen one of the rods broke in half, no idea what caused it as i bought the car as is. The piston wanted to come out the top, and the other half of the rod wanted to leave using the backdoor.

Currently started on rebuilding a different motor, finally got all the bolts in today (bedplate bolts and main bearing bolts), hopefully all goes well.

Already test spun the crank, and it moves flawlessly.

This is only the bottom end damage, the piston tried to leave via the head of the motor, there is a big hole there aswell and the piston is stuck in the cillinder wall.

More pictures will follow soon, appearently i can not post videos.

Sorry for the huge pictures, i tried to spoiler it but it didn't work.

[bmchicago]

Is this your first time building N55 motor? Very common damage on 2011-2018 N55 engines.
Replace vanos solenoids,

If engine has oil cooler, replace lines and cooler and make sure you prime the engine with i5тд before starting.

If you have a donor engine from 2010-2011 Model year check VANOS bolts to see if the are original Security type Torx Bolts. Replace them with updated non-security bolts. Also replace eccentric shaft, motor and valve cover assembly.

The original repair instructions are wrong when sealing the bedplate. Make sure you use the original loctite and sealer
83 19 7 515 683
83 19 0 439 030
and not the Loctite 5970 which the instructions call for.

[Probleemkind]

Is this your first time building N55 motor? Very common damage on 2011-2018 N55 engines.
Replace vanos solenoids,

If engine has oil cooler, replace lines and cooler and make sure you prime the engine with i5тд before starting.

If you have a donor engine from 2010-2011 Model year check VANOS bolts to see if the are original Security type Torx Bolts. Replace them with updated non-security bolts. Also replace eccentric shaft, motor and valve cover assembly.

The original repair instructions are wrong when sealing the bedplate. Make sure you use the original loctite and sealer
83 19 7 515 683
83 19 0 439 030
and not the Loctite 5970 which the instructions call for.

Yes, this is my first time doing the N55 rebuild.
I will make sure to replace the vanos solenoids aswell, thank you for the suggestion!

I had to do things a little different regarding the sealer, i am living in Europe but this BMW is a US import. The sealer/loctite recommended for this is not on the market here, so i went ahead and used the best option we use on the European market for a sealant. 

The donor motor is from the exact same model and year car, the "new motor" is only the head, top and bottom end and the carter. The rest will be used from the blown motor.

I do have a question tho, what do you mean by prime it with i5тд? I am rather new to that.

[bmchicago]

Make sure the spark plug recess's are the same or you'll need to swap them over. They are different in early 2011-2012 production dates. If they are different, your fuel injectors will not fit correctly and you'll need to take the valve cover off to swap them. Or retrofit the GEN 2 fuel injectors so they'll fit.

Before starting the engine, but after draining the assembly oil and filling with new oil and filter.

Disconnect the ignition / fuel wiring harness at the DME, its the plug closest to the firewall/bulkhead.

Run the oil start up 5ёяvїcё function in i5тд. It will show you oil pressure over time on live display graph. You'll probably need to crank the engine 2-3 times until the starter motor stops on its own. Wait 20 seconds between start attempts. When the engine is sufficiently primed, the test plan will alert you and the live graph will stop updating. Plug the ignition / fuel wiring harness back in and start the engine normally.

If you do not have i5тд, you can just crank the engine normally 3 times over with the ignition / fuel wiring harness disconnected to prime the system.

[Probleemkind]

Make sure the spark plug recess's are the same or you'll need to swap them over. They are different in early 2011-2012 production dates. If they are different, your fuel injectors will not fit correctly and you'll need to take the valve cover off to swap them. Or retrofit the GEN 2 fuel injectors so they'll fit.

Before starting the engine, but after draining the assembly oil and filling with new oil and filter.

Disconnect the ignition / fuel wiring harness at the DME, its the plug closest to the firewall/bulkhead.

Run the oil start up 5ёяvїcё function in i5тд. It will show you oil pressure over time on live display graph. You'll probably need to crank the engine 2-3 times until the starter motor stops on its own. Wait 20 seconds between start attempts. When the engine is sufficiently primed, the test plan will alert you and the live graph will stop updating. Plug the ignition / fuel wiring harness back in and start the engine normally.

If you do not have i5тд, you can just crank the engine normally 3 times over with the ignition / fuel wiring harness disconnected to prime the system.

Thank you so much, so much food for thought. I do have i5тд and i will make sure to look into this!

[kumaichi]

I'm heading down the same path as you, I recently picked up a 2011 e70 that has a spun bearing. The first thing I did was remove the fuel pump fuse and made sure there was no fuel left so when I get it rebuilt I can do the i5тд oil startup correctly. I read the maintenance on the vehicle and it recently had the OFH replaced, I don't think they primed the oil and it eventually spun the bearing. I don't know what damage is inside until I get it out and aрдят.

[Probleemkind]

I'm heading down the same path as you, I recently picked up a 2011 e70 that has a spun bearing.  The first thing I did was remove the fuel pump fuse and made sure there was no fuel left so when I get it rebuilt I can do the i5тд oil startup correctly.  I read the maintenance on the vehicle and it recently had the OFH replaced, I don't think they primed the oil and it eventually spun the bearing.  I don't know what damage is inside until I get it out and aрдят.

Damn, sounds like a fun project to me haha! Feel free to send me some pictures when you're done.

I am currently doing the valves and other head related work.

Will post pictures later! Goodluck my man!