[thecarfixer]

Those of you who saw my FLA retrofit, I've got another cluster and am trying to virginise the 080D0WQ. I bought a cheapy Chinesium (well, aren't they all) R270 programmer, have desoldered the EPROM from the Kombi.

I've removed the C1 from the adapter board because I couldn't get it to read the chip at all, and had a little bit of success, but it's incredibly hit and miss.

I *think* I've written out the mileage to 0, because every so often it actually works, rather than erroring out but most of the time it comes up with a verify error after trying a few times. I did manage to take a copy of the original bin, at the very least, if I've fried the chip.

Any tips? Or is the thing just complete rubbish, and I should get someone to write me an EPROM? If anyone can help in England, I'd be grateful.

[RaoulK1998]

usually i replace them with a new chip and write virginized bin on there, as i can rarely get them to erase even with modified R270

[foxportal]

SUPPORT CHIPS, erase without problems.
080DOWQ
160 DOWQ
35160WQ
35080 3/6
35080 V6 / VP
080D0WT
160D0WT

[thecarfixer]

I've fixed it. Power supply quality is very important on these things, I don't think they have much smoothing circuitry. Powered off a pretty clean power supply and it all started to behave - albeit clunkily.

Mileage reset to 80km now, and VIN cleared, and it shows the right mileage when I power up the kombi before putting it on the car, so I felt comfortable putting it on the car without writing the higher mileage on the CAS.

Tamper dot came up, so did a code, dot went and everything worked properly, check control, etc. And the FLA symbol comes up as it should! Happy days.

[thecarfixer]

So I wanted to use PerfektToolbox to test and calibrate the needles to make sure it was all ok. Tried it, read the kombi and then tried the 'test drive' functions to drive the various dials to figures to check the needle positions.

Nothing actually responded to my requests, even though when I'd tried to start the engine, the fuel gauge was in the right place, and the rev counter looked right.

After this, it all went a bit weird, the speedo and rev counter stopped working, so I thought turning the car off and back on would make it recover, alas no.

The upshot is, it looks like the kombi is bricked - I can't default code it without getting an error, and I see two fault codes that I can't clear relating to the code. Also the VIN has gone, ZB number is garbage, etc when I check with INPA. Mileage is now 999999, tamper dot flashing, everything flashing and beeping away at me.

I'm thinking it might be my soldering on the EPROM, what does everything think? Or is PerfektToolbox good at bricking kombis? (I doubt this, as lots of people seem to use it)

[thecarfixer]

Got the chip off the board again to read it, I don't think my soldering was very clean, as it took a bit to get the chip to read again (cleaning the terminals). I've ordered some new flux, and will try drag soldering the chip back on the board next time.

I've attached the original dump, and the one that's now on the chip, does this look correct?

[SweetBMW]

Haven’t look at your files. But the symptoms you describe a usually because of bad soldering eeprom.

It’s shown like garbage because the data can’t be read from the chip

[thecarfixer]

Thanks, makes sense. I still can't read the chip reliably from the R270, writing seems quite reliable once the read works. I think that's the nature of a very cheap programmer..

I'm hoping that a proper solder in job will fix the issue.

[thecarfixer]

I seem to have fixed it by some proper hot air soldering of the EPROM. I got some strange stuff about the DME not getting ambient air temp, but a re flash of the kombi, default code *seems* to have cleared that.

Will monitor how it behaves. The speedo needle and fuel gauge also needs a little tweak, as it over reads too.

[armenh7]

Here's how to make your R270 reliable. I have done two with no issues.

Replace AH08 with genuine TI SN74AHC08DR (AH08) on main board.
Remove yellow capacitor on C1 on the adapter board.
Use a high quality 12V power supply
Replace 74HC125 with genuine TI CD74HCT125M96E4 on the adapter board.
Replace the capacitor on the main board with a high quality 10V 1000uf capacitor
Replace R11 on adapter board with 10k resistor.

Finally, when using the software, always select "No" during the "check pin state" popup.