[sixcode]

Finally arrived

1. Has fake oki (has the pin cut)
2. AMB 2300 looks original to me with resistors at the back
3. Has V type memory with 10 timing which means 3.3V
4. Has 3 resistors missing see red selection

Any advice??

pictures are to small.....

[champagnecharly]

Take the shield off the amb to see whatis below. Also take a look underneath the amb board. I'll second the fact pics are too small.

[apoelistas]

Picture links corrected please advice. What is the consequence of the 3 missing resistors (red square)?? Do these have to do with OKI or something else???

[sixcode]

Picture links corrected please advice.

?... these are "thumbnail" size, UPLOAD real size

[apoelistas]

Picture links corrected please advice.

?... these are "thumbnail" size, UPLOAD real size

Is this ok? Probably I have to re-shoot the memory side with my wifes phone. I will not remove the memory chips however I will try to find 2 heatsinks for the memory before using. ordered 22x8x5mm copper heatsinks (hope they fit in the case)

link.txt
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Just as a question. Newer laptop memory modules are now using lower voltage of 3.3V instead of 5V and on the bios both memory types are supported. Maybe 3.3V if the correct firmware is installed is fine and does not cause instability issues??. Just questioning the 5V memory chip advantage over the 3.3V.

[Enabled]

Finally arrived

1. Has fake oki (has the pin cut)
2. AMB 2300 looks original to me with resistors at the back
3. Has V type memory with 10 timing which means 3.3V (not sure if I can put a heatsink, space limitations??, to make them more stable).
4. Has 3 resistors missing see red selection
5. Has QC mark also externally written.

You are not missing 3 resistors. You are missing just 2 0603ESDA2-TR2, which are Electrostatic Discharge suppressors. These are basically there to protect the circuits in case of voltage spike damage.
Any other similar ESD suppressors would work with these specifications

0603ESDA2-TR2 .txt
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The rest, I would have the ram replaced instead of a fix that isn't proven to fix anything, and worry about OKI much much less, unless you have a Sharan or something.



You will likely find a few more errors inside the 2 electronic boards, namely the A5780A (AU5780A) which is for J1850 VPW protocol, mostly for General Motors products. It could be missing, or installed in wrong position.
(Remember that the VAS5054a is actually a specialized EDIC Blue interface, which was built to be a passthrough interface for all automobiles)

I take it you have seen Fantomel's excellent pics of his genuine VAS5054a, with directions on what to change on the boards to improve it.


Your AMB2300 looks genuine from the outside, but I have seen pics of the HC-05 (also known as BC417) Bluetooth stuffed under the AMB2300 cover, and made to look like an AMB2300. The HC-05 Bluetooth is what the cheap VAS5054a use for Bluetooth module. It's not a bad Bluetooth module; it's good for Arduino and other small electronics, but not for VAS.
The HC-05 Bluetooth under an AMB2300 cover trick module is the one with missing components on the back of the board, because they were not needed for HC-05.

   

A picture I found on the internet. Here is the HC-05 Bluetooth module completely reorganized to look like AMB3200, all under the shiny metal cover. These are the ones missing the small resistors/capacitors (whatever they are) on the back of the Bluetooth board.

[apoelistas]

You are not missing 3 resistors. You are missing just 2 0603ESDA2-TR2, which are Electrostatic Discharge suppressors. These are basically there to protect the circuits in case of voltage spike damage.
Any other similar ESD suppressors would work with these specifications



The rest, I would have the ram replaced instead of a fix that isn't proven to fix anything, and worry about OKI much much less, unless you have a Sharan or something.



You will likely find a few more errors inside the 2 electronic boards, namely the A5780A (AU5780A) which is for J1850 VPW protocol, mostly for General Motors products. It could be missing, or installed in wrong position.
(Remember that the VAS5054a is actually a specialized EDIC Blue interface, which was built to be a passthrough interface for all automobiles)

I take it you have seen Fantomel's excellent pics of his genuine VAS5054a, with directions on what to change on the boards to improve it.


Your AMB2300 looks genuine from the outside, but I have seen pics of the HC-05 (also known as BC417) Bluetooth stuffed under the AMB2300 cover, and made to look like an AMB2300. The HC-05 Bluetooth is what the cheap VAS5054a use for Bluetooth module. It's not a bad Bluetooth module; it's good for Arduino and other small electronics, but not for VAS.
The HC-05 Bluetooth under an AMB2300 cover trick module is the one with missing components on the back of the board, because they were not needed for HC-05.



A picture I found on the internet. Here is the HC-05 Bluetooth module completely reorganized to look like AMB3200, all under the shiny metal cover. These are the ones missing the small resistors/capacitors (whatever they are) on the back of the Bluetooth board.

Cheers for your analytic/engineering response. This is the best reply one could have given me.

I will purchase what is needed, then I will have to think how to make it proper (need the tools). I am not taking the chance with the iron soldering for the memory and oki modules.

However I need to find a guide how to solder the resistors. I only know how to remove them. (SMD tweezer) LOL. Need to do some reading since this is the first thing I will do. Then I will take a look for the A5780A and compare it with the proper pictures.

So much appreciated. Hope the amb2300 is proper.

[ninja_zx11]

Mt vas5054a which i got recently from ebay has i think HC-05 Bluetooth inside a amd2300 metal shield as Enabled has mentioned.But somehow its taking PDU API firmware upgrades and downgrades like an original one..Its even working with the latest ODIS.

But i am not able to open options screen while using edic configuration where the buzzer settings are.It says device not accessible.I think on a genuine one,you can access all settings.
Apoelistas, please try that settings page and see if you are able to change buzzer settings.

[Enabled]

You can remove and resolder the ram and OKI easily with Chip Quik and drag soldering technique with an iron. I don't think you need to have the most expensive/professional tools to do it. Yes, it's nice to have, sure.

Use plenty of quality flux. That will create the cleanest solder and fix mistakes. I refluxed mine and chased with the iron and made it even cleaner than it was. My ram now looks like it came from factory. I am amateur, and if you have a steady hand and do enough research, it can be done.
Weirdly, moving quickly a few times makes it nicer than slow and careful.

Youtube soldering tips.txt
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Here is my genuine AMB2300 under the silver cover. I got lucky, because you don't know what you will get.

   

If you have MX and CSR BC417 chips, then it is HC-05, (fake AMB2300).


Correct, if you cannot access buzzer settings or other settings, then I think it's an HC-05.

[apoelistas]

To give power to vas5054a for the tests with edic configuration I need to connect vas5054a to the car obd connector right??