[apoelistas]

None anymore, don't waste your money. If there was they would have responded.

[ufkenedy]

hello guys. i want to buy vas 5054a. i cant identify original. pls who can tell me how to identify original. i want to purchase from WEB OR ANYWHERE. i read original is this code AMB2300. i really dont understand what it means. better still, can i get web link from where to purchase original!  or anywhere else,I DONT KNOW HOW TO DO REWORK SO I JUST WANT STRAIGHT ORIGINAL BUY AND USE

[apoelistas]

buy vas6154 from audi/vw erwin website, not chinese clone. Vas5054a is at its end of life cycle.

Best would be VCDs and VCP original.

[ufkenedy]

buy vas6154 from audi/vw erwin website, not chinese clone. Vas5054a is at its end of life cycle.

Best would be VCDs and VCP original.

i am used to vas 5054a. can vas6154 do same thing as 5054a. what about price, its a major factor too. vcds and vcp are too expensive for my budget right now. ill check erwin too thanks

---

buy vas6154 from audi/vw erwin website, not chinese clone. Vas5054a is at its end of life cycle.

Best would be VCDs and VCP original.

does 6154 support all vag fully like 5054a?

---

buy vas6154 from audi/vw erwin website, not chinese clone. Vas5054a is at its end of life cycle.

Best would be VCDs and VCP original.

i am used to vas 5054a. can vas6154 do same thing as 5054a. what about price, its a major factor too. vcds and vcp are too expensive for my budget right now. ill check erwin too thanks

---

buy vas6154 from audi/vw erwin website, not chinese clone. Vas5054a is at its end of life cycle.

Best would be VCDs and VCP original.

does 6154 support all vag fully like 5054a?

erwin is not free to access lol. do they sell 5054a?

[apoelistas]

If VCDS (225EU for 3 vin + delivery) or VCP (240+delivery + Kline if you need it) are expensive then original vas6154 will be x5 more expensive (1500EU).  VCP and VCDs work with any windows x32 or x64.

Vas5054a only works with windows 7 x32 driver. As I said end of life product.
Vas6154 works with x64 driver too.

Both with same software odis-s/e so you dont loose any functionality. However I have never tested one because I dont need it.

You can register at ERWIN for free.

[turp9]

What do you guys think which one would be the best to rework?? Looks like some components are soldered with hot chisel ,but dont mind it. Going to resolder them.

[apoelistas]

Correction, infineon with issis should be ok. Same as original.

[medianjoe]

What I found while reworking mine are;

- OKI M6636 : It's for J1850 PWM but the protocol is not used anymore unless you own old Ford vehicles. So, if it's genuine, leave it. If it's fake, simply remove it or leave it as it's not used anymore.

- TJA1055 (TJA1054AT is old version) :  It's for low speed CAN protocol (it's connected to OBD-II pin 9). If it's mounted upside down, it's fake. If it's mounted correctly, it can be either  genuine or fake. So, if it's upside down, don't reuse the component. You have to buy genuine NXP TJA1055T from a local reputable distributor. Don't buy it from Chinese seller.

- AU5780A (A5780A is old version but both are obsoleted) : It's for J1850 VPM but the protocol is not used anymore unless you own old GM vehicles. If it's mounted upside down, it's fake. Don't reuse it again. If it's fake or mounted upside down, simply remove it. Or, you can leave it as it's not used anymore.

- TJA1057 (TJA1040, TJA1050 is old version) : It's for high speed CAN protocol (ISO11898). All modern vehicles from 2008 model year must support this protocol, so this chip is the most important one. This chip can't be fake but some clones use counterfeit chip which can be unreliable. So, if it's not genuine, buy genuine NXP TJA1057 from a reputable distributor and replace it.

- 5V Constant Voltage Linear Regulator (LT3010EMS8E. Marked as LEATF on chip) : Most clones use a three leg voltage regulator (78L05). It works. You can leave it. If it bothers you or you are going to rework the board, replace it with LT3010EMS8E. 

- SRAM (Samsung, ISSI, etc) : 3V SRAM seems to work. If you are going to rework the board, you can replace it with 5V 10ns SRAM.  10ns is the recommended speed, but 55ns or 70ns also works. Buy the SRAM from a reputable distributor since some online sellers are selling counterfeit SRAM, which doesn't look genuine. Since it's an asynchronous SRAM, you never notice if it's counterfeit or not, but slow or die after months ...... 

- Microcontroller (Infineon) : The microcontroller works at 40MHz (i.e., 25ns) but some clones use 20MHz version. Check if it's 40MHz before starting rework.

- AMB2300 (Bluetooth) : None of clones use genuine AMB2300 anymore. All are counterfeit or 3rd parties'. So don't bother it.  

What do you guys think which one would be the best to rework?? Looks like some components are soldered with hot chisel ,but dont mind it. Going to resolder them.

Photo 1,2,3,4 : it looks like a reworked board by someone. All looks good. Genuine TJA1057, genuine TJA1054AT. OKI and A5780A looks genuine but it's not important. SRAM is 5V/10ns.

Photo 5,6,7,8 : TJA1054AT is fake. One diode is mounted wrong.  OKI looks original but nobody will know as it's not important. AU5780A looks genuine but as it's mounted upside down, so it's fake, but it's not important. TJA1057 looks genuine(not sure). SRAM is 5V/55ns. 

Photo 9,10,11,12 : TJA1054AT is fake (100%). One diode is mounted wrong. OKI and AU5780A is fake (100%) but it's not important. TJA1057 will work but it's not genuine(counterfeit). This board has LTZF instead the three leg regulator. EFE looks good. SRAM is 5V/55ns. 

Both(photo 5~8 and 9~12) looks the same for me.

[apoelistas]

I have installed heatsinks on my 3V 10ns samsung memory. It should run faster than 5V but temperature should not rise significantly higher compared to 5V memory, otherwise if no heatsinks are installed I believe it would rise and become unstable .

The other one comes with 55ns  5V. That is stable but a bit slower than the 10ns memory. Not sure how slower in rear time when flashing, could it be upto 5.5 times slower, something to think about.???

[turp9]

I have installed heatsinks on my 3V 10ns samsung memory. It should run faster than 5V but temperature should not rise significantly compared to 5V memory, otherwise if no heatsinks are isntalled I believe it would rise and become unstable .

The other one comes with 55ns  5V. That is stable but a bit slower than the 10ns memory. Not sure how slower in rear time when flashing.

But how the heatsinks cool down ? There is like zero airflow in casing
Got 700.2115 with all of them on self-test. All okis fake? Can anyone tell me what components are missing form BT-PCB?