[Node]

I just ordered gysflash 100-12hf for 550€ delivered here in Lithuania (found a local company which sells gys welding stuff and they agreed to deliver the charger) as I needed the second PSU. Don't think I can buy Schumacher cheaper than that. Does you home-built one has limiting current mode and supports automatic battery charging?

[aboulfad]

I just ordered gysflash 100-12hf for 550€ delivered here in Lithuania (found a local company which sells gys welding stuff and they agreed to deliver the charger) as I needed the second PSU. Don't think I can buy Schumacher cheaper than that. Does you home-built one has limiting current mode and supports automatic battery charging?

The topic of this thread is PSUs, so my home made device is a PSU, not a charger! I have a separate trickle charger for my LifePO4 battery (the F8x have special lithium phosphate batteries and require a special charger or one that is very configurable)

[Temrotec]

Looking for decent power supply for programming purposes. What are you using and what can you recommend?

For occasional use a cheap DIY PSU (stable, modified computer server PSU 1570Watt, approx. 100A !) can do the job. BMW recommended ones for the workshop are very expensive professional appliances. I've added a comprehensive tutorial how to build one intended for experienced electronics hobbyists.

[Node]

The main problem with all these DIY solutions as I see it is that output voltage is fixed. Given the currents vary in great range the voltage drop on the cables also varies much and so the voltage at the car. So either cables need to be very short AND thick (very impractical) AND clamps need to be of very high quality or voltage at the car varies too much for my comfort. Professional PSUs I've seen (gysflash 100-12hf included, according to their manual, which immediately tells me they have quality product) automatically correct output voltages based on cable characteristics and current consumption so voltage at the car stays more or less stable. No pun intended, but I think people considering DIY should know that.

[Marcos]

The main problem with all these DIY solutions as I see it is that output voltage is fixed. Given the currents vary in great range the voltage drop on the cables also varies much and so the voltage at the car. So either cables need to be very short AND thick (very impractical) AND clamps need to be of very high quality or voltage at the car varies too much for my comfort. Professional PSUs I've seen (gysflash 100-12hf included, according to their manual, which immediately tells me they have quality product) automatically correct output voltages based on cable characteristics and current consumption so voltage at the car stays more or less stable. No pun intended, but I think people considering DIY should know that.

No pun intended but you are wrong.

[JarsaR]

Hey,

Gysflash 100-12HF, High quality product, And trough Abrites website, one can have it
for a very reasonable price!

Link

Edit. Post: #89 Cheaper link than mine.

[ripp222]

Has anyone on 120 VAC tried the IOTA DLS series power supplies?

From their manual, "IOTA DLS Series Power Converter/Battery Chargers convert 120 volts nominal A.C. to 13.6 volts D.C. As a power supply, its tightly controlled regulation allows the user to operate any 12 volt nominal D.C. load up to the converter’s rated output current. As a battery charger, the converter will maintain the battery, delivering its full-rated current when the battery capacity falls sufficiently low."

13.6 VDC is too low, but the two-step voltage jack appears to allow some customization:
"The two-step voltage jack allows switching from a long-term float voltage of 13.6vdc to a ‘high-stage’ voltage of 14.2vdc. When the included dual voltage plug is inserted in the jack*, the voltage rises to 14.2vdc for occasional fast charging. When the plug is removed, the voltage drops to 13.6vdc to reduce battery water loss."

[Temrotec]

The main problem with all these DIY solutions as I see it is that output voltage is fixed. Given the currents vary in great range the voltage drop on the cables also varies much and so the voltage at the car. So either cables need to be very short AND thick (very impractical) AND clamps need to be of very high quality or voltage at the car varies too much for my comfort. Professional PSUs I've seen (gysflash 100-12hf included, according to their manual, which immediately tells me they have quality product) automatically correct output voltages based on cable characteristics and current consumption so voltage at the car stays more or less stable. No pun intended, but I think people considering DIY should know that.

For professional use in the workshop you are right and youshould spend a lot of money. But what about a hobbyist looking around in a forum? Visiting the car dealer instead of buying a PowerMax™, Schumacher™ (US) or Deutronic™, Eltek™ (EU-De) or Gys™ (EU-Fr)could be the best option.

I know that a professional type like a Gysflash won't give the pittfalls of a DIY PSU but the tutorial I've made takes attention of the critical control points to make. Rock solid connections (binding post connected over copper bars (!) and massive chargings cables to connect the car provokes only a minimal voltage drop (about 0.15 VDC) at the clamps running the PSU at 67 Ampere, as proved with some measurements made (see added pictures at the end of the manual) and using a professional, calibrated multimeter. Even the sound level meter used is a higly professional one (= massive overkill for DIY, I know and I know Ohms law regarding the importance of resistance of cables as well).
In practice the described PSU copes very well, not running hot and not dropping the voltage at high currents.

Best regards

[Node]

Well, yes, you need to pay attention to all the details. But frankly, where do you get that price range for Gysflash in your doc? You say min 750€, but I've ordered mine new shipped to Lithuania at 550€. Now can you tell frankly how much your DIY cost? Cables, voltmeter, ampmeter, clamps... I had a look at the catalogue prices, took cheapest I found and the total is easily over 300€. Plus PSU price and all those other things inside. I would say your project should have cost of over 400€. Not that big difference at all. And a week of tinkering time saved And also all those features like current limiting (I will use it for my other projects) and automatic battery charging are not there. Please correct me if I'm wrong. Of course doing without volts and amps displays would be much cheaper. I was thinking about doing one DIY myself, but then I've read about gysflash here and at that price I decided very quickly. Have not received it yet, so judging about it by the manual only yet.

[Marcos]

Now can you tell frankly how much your DIY cost? Cables, voltmeter, ampmeter, clamps... I had a look at the catalogue prices, took cheapest I found and the total is easily over 300€.

Have no idea where you are searching for but this DIY project is at most 100Euros (I consider OVERPRICED at this value )
VAMeters are sold in China for 10-12USD ! (100A shunt included)
WELDING cables and clamps are not so expensive.

It works the same as your BRAND named PSU, for a fraction of the cost.