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Good or Bad Vas5054A
17-11-2018, 18:34 PM, (This post was last modified: 17-11-2018, 20:08 PM by apoelistas.)
Post: #261
RE: Good or Bad Vas5054A
(17-11-2018, 18:28 PM)turp9 Wrote:  But how the heatsinks cool down ? There is like zero airflow in casing biggrin
Got 700.2115 with all of them on self-test. All okis fake? Can anyone tell me what components are missing form BT-PCB?

the enclosure temperature rises which dissipates air to the car/surrounding cabin air or does it not. smile.

If it does not work, I have more than 10 original 5V 10ns memory modules.

Here is your error code. See description.

   

Though it does not make sense it was proposed in the past that the error code may come from fake A5780A but the guy had original OKI M6636.

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21-11-2018, 19:38 PM, (This post was last modified: 21-11-2018, 20:26 PM by apoelistas.)
Post: #262
RE: Good or Bad Vas5054A
To get the error codes I believe one has to install VAS PC V19 software. It is almost impossible to install this in a windows 7 even x32. I failed. (win xp compatible)
   

Here are my vas5054a photos. It has a genuine oki with all legs connected. Memory is obvious that should be reworked, so is voltage controller, between Memory resistors, near the lamp one resistor, maybe a few others.

I have taken fresh photos for comparison purposes before rework. Anyone can see anything else will be obliged.
               

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21-11-2018, 20:23 PM, (This post was last modified: 21-11-2018, 20:29 PM by turp9.)
Post: #263
RE: Good or Bad Vas5054A
(21-11-2018, 19:38 PM)apoelistas Wrote:  To get the error codes I believe one has to install VAS PC V19 software. It is almost impossible to install this in a windows 7 even x32. I failed. (win xp compatible)

Yes, you need to run VAS PC under win xp. Im using VM.
R500 is wrong value resistor.

Can anyone tell me what components are under original AMB2300 pcb?
21-11-2018, 20:39 PM, (This post was last modified: 21-11-2018, 20:40 PM by Enabled.)
Post: #264
RE: Good or Bad Vas5054A
(17-11-2018, 16:48 PM)medianjoe Wrote:  What I found while reworking mine are;

- OKI M6636 : It's for J1850 PWM but the protocol is not used anymore unless you own old Ford vehicles. So, if it's genuine, leave it. If it's fake, simply remove it or leave it as it's not used anymore.

- TJA1055 (TJA1054AT is old version) :  It's for low speed CAN protocol (it's connected to OBD-II pin 9). If it's mounted upside down, it's fake. If it's mounted correctly, it can be either  genuine or fake. So, if it's upside down, don't reuse the component. You have to buy genuine NXP TJA1055T from a local reputable distributor. Don't buy it from Chinese seller.

- AU5780A (A5780A is old version but both are obsoleted) : It's for J1850 VPM but the protocol is not used anymore unless you own old GM vehicles. If it's mounted upside down, it's fake. Don't reuse it again. If it's fake or mounted upside down, simply remove it. Or, you can leave it as it's not used anymore.

- TJA1057 (TJA1040, TJA1050 is old version) : It's for high speed CAN protocol (ISO11898). All modern vehicles from 2008 model year must support this protocol, so this chip is the most important one. This chip can't be fake but some clones use counterfeit chip which can be unreliable. So, if it's not genuine, buy genuine NXP TJA1057 from a reputable distributor and replace it.

- 5V Constant Voltage Linear Regulator (LT3010EMS8E. Marked as LEATF on chip) : Most clones use a three leg voltage regulator (78L05). It works. You can leave it. If it bothers you or you are going to rework the board, replace it with LT3010EMS8E. 

- SRAM (Samsung, ISSI, etc) : 3V SRAM seems to work. If you are going to rework the board, you can replace it with 5V 10ns SRAM.  10ns is the recommended speed, but 55ns or 70ns also works. Buy the SRAM from a reputable distributor since some online sellers are selling counterfeit SRAM, which doesn't look genuine. Since it's an asynchronous SRAM, you never notice if it's counterfeit or not, but slow or die after months ......  giggle

- Microcontroller (Infineon) : The microcontroller works at 40MHz (i.e., 25ns) but some clones use 20MHz version. Check if it's 40MHz before starting rework.

- AMB2300 (Bluetooth) : None of clones use genuine AMB2300 anymore. All are counterfeit or 3rd parties'. So don't bother it.

+1

I wish we could lay this OKI chip nonsense to rest.


BTW AMB2300 is still available, but a bit rare now.
21-11-2018, 21:02 PM, (This post was last modified: 23-11-2018, 11:37 AM by apoelistas.)
Post: #265
RE: Good or Bad Vas5054A
(21-11-2018, 20:39 PM)Enabled Wrote:  +1

I wish we could lay this OKI chip nonsense to rest.


BTW AMB2300 is still available, but a bit rare now.

Why you need oki.

To check with VASPC if vas5054a is proper, you need to rework all components.

Are you saying that my vas5054a only needs 5V voltage regulator, 1 TJA1050 and 2 memory modules?? The list is insufficient, ok maybe a good start but there are a few more capacitors, resistors missing (I have those). Will also use Fantomel rework photos and original vas5054a photos for anything else to be replaced (though I will be happy and in addition with just 2 capacitors at memory location, 1 resistor missing near the light. I think this will be enough. 

This vas5054a after minimal rework and amb2300 add on, will be near perfect.

It is amazing to notice that the surcharge protectors exist in this vas5054a. All in place, all correct direction.
 
1. oki ok
2. TJA1054AT ok
3. AU5780A ok original and correct direction
   
4. A1040/C ????? Is this fake?  ------ Might change this to TJA1050 as recommended.
Voltage regulator needs changing LT3010EMS8E.
5. SRAM 5V 55ns need changing to 10ns 
6. Infinion ok
7. amb2300 I already have

Anyhow these photos are of the best vas5054a hardware, one can find but without amb2300, but needs rework as noted.

For amb2300 one has to buy another vas5054a, not available any longer unless you are really lucky, but board wise will have more fake or missing components than above. 

This vas5054a was a lucky find from another forum member with an A recommendation with original OKi but as noted without amb2300. (Oki Pin was not cut as one suggested in the past. Cleaned with alcohol and complete leg revealed.)

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22-11-2018, 06:19 AM, (This post was last modified: 22-11-2018, 06:54 AM by apoelistas.)
Post: #266
RE: Good or Bad Vas5054A
How can I change the serial on amb2300 (or is this read from another chip of vas5054a)?? Can the serial be rewritten?

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24-11-2018, 22:12 PM,
Post: #267
RE: Good or Bad Vas5054A
Here is the reworked one for me. I replaced TJA1055T(fake TJA1054AT), TJA1057(counterfeit TJA1057), 10ns 5V SRAM (3.3V 70ns Samsung), LT3010EMS8E-5 (cheap 78L05 three-leg linear regulator), 0603ESDA2-TR2(missing ESD Suppressors for USB).  OKI and AU5780A are removed. All are genuine came from a trusted distributor. The micro controller under the sticker is 16F40F. I will keep all resistors as SMD resistors are good enough on digital circuits. AMB2300 is not original but it works til ~1.20.41. I wish I could change the serial.


Attached Files Thumbnail(s)
           
24-11-2018, 22:42 PM, (This post was last modified: 25-11-2018, 01:11 AM by apoelistas.)
Post: #268
RE: Good or Bad Vas5054A
(12-09-2017, 17:06 PM)ninja_zx11 Wrote:  Mt vas5054a which i got recently from ebay has i think HC-05 Bluetooth inside a amd2300 metal shield as Enabled has mentioned.But somehow its taking PDU API firmware upgrades and downgrades like an original one.dontknow.Its even working with the latest ODIS.

But i am not able to open options screen while using edic configuration where the buzzer settings are.It says device not accessible.I think on a genuine one,you can access all settings.
Apoelistas, please try that settings page and see if you are able to change buzzer settings.
I got a genuine one. I can access the edic configuration and enable buzzer settings. Upgrade, Downgrade

LT1976EFE, LT1976IFE, LT1976HFE do the same work. Any of them is acceptable. IF you have LT1976IFE same as me do not change it.

I have 3 types of memory for vas5054a:
   
Left from ebay . No dimple. Not sure if genuine. Non quality laser
Middle from aliexpress: have 4. Genuine, dimple, laser print.
Right I have 10 from ebay USA. Made in USA with dimple same specs as middle . Genuine, laser print.

Does Anyone know the missing resistor specs in the yellow circle, I think it is a 122 resistor but dont know the size?? 
   

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25-11-2018, 02:06 AM,
Post: #269
RE: Good or Bad Vas5054A
(24-11-2018, 22:42 PM)apoelistas Wrote:  Does Anyone know the missing resistor specs in the yellow circle, I think it is a 122 resistor but dont know the size?? 

It's 221 resistor on my board, and size is 1608.
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25-11-2018, 11:22 AM, (This post was last modified: 25-11-2018, 14:44 PM by apoelistas.)
Post: #270
RE: Good or Bad Vas5054A
220 ohms 5% 1608/0603 SMD 220R (221)

Sorted out, had to buy a roll of 5000.

This compleres all parts I needed for making vas5054a reliable.

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